Four-mushroom Korean pot rice (2 servings)

Rinse all three kinds of rice, soak for 30–60 minutes, then drain.

Simmer 3 cups water with mushroom trimmings, a few shiitake slices and kelp for 15 minutes to make stock. If using dried shiitake, its soaking liquid may replace this stock.

Slice the mushrooms into bite-size pieces; tear oyster mushrooms by hand. Reserve enoki separately.

Heat 1 tsp perilla oil and 1 tsp neutral oil in a heavy-bottomed pot. Stir the drained rice over medium-high heat for about 3 minutes without scorching.

Pour in about 2 cups mushroom stock, enough to cover the rice, and add all mushrooms except enoki. Cover and cook over medium heat for about 5 minutes.

Lower heat to medium-low for about 15 minutes, then low for about 10 minutes. Add enoki for the final 3 minutes so it cooks thoroughly. Reduce heat and add a little stock if the bottom starts to scorch.

While the rice cooks, combine chopped scallions, 1 tsp perilla oil, 1 tbsp soy sauce, 1 tbsp water and 1/2 tsp sesame seeds.

Once rice and mushrooms are fully cooked, turn off the heat and leave covered for about 3 minutes. Mix gently and serve with the sauce.